Tobie Hatfield works in Nike’s innovation kitchen, dedicating himself
towards translating athlete insights into advanced product innovations.
Original website
He
is the designer behind Michael Johnson’s iconic gold spikes, Nike
Presto and the groundbreaking Nike Free line, which this year celebrates
its tenth anniversary.
He told Designboom more about his
unexpected journey to becoming an influential shoe designer, where he
finds inspiration and the value of a balanced lifestyle.
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Designboom (DB): What made you want to be a designer?
Tobie
Hatfield (TH): I never wanted to be a designer growing up. I’ve always
had a curious, creative side to me but I never pursued it like my
brother Tinker did; he was always designing and studied architecture
before working at Nike. My dad was a track and field coach and I was an
athlete at school and college, and because of that, I’ve always been
interested in how the body moves. At college I studied anatomy and
physiology, which has turned out to be a blessing. In a way, design
eventually found me, rather me finding it.
DB: How did you come to be a designer at Nike?
TH:
I was a pole vaulter, as was my brother, and Bill Bowerman (founder of
Nike) was his coach at the University of Oregon. At that time I was in
high school, but Bill made me my first pair of custom track shoes. He
took X-rays of my feet so he knew where to best place the spikes. This
was my first brush with the Nike model of the designer working very
closely with the athlete to improve their equipment and performance.
Seeing Bill work like that first-hand left a strong impression on me.
After
college I continued with my pole vaulting career for a couple of years,
but several injuries later I decided to move into coaching. I joined
Nike in 1990 and began working with materials initially, then shoe
development, then engineering, and after several years I got involved
with design.
The first notable project I worked on was the gold
track shoe worn by Michael Johnson at the 1996 Atlanta Olympics, in
which he won two gold medals in the 200 and 400 sprints – that got my
shoe design career off to a great start!
DB: Could you tell us how Nike Free was conceived?
TH:
To give you some background, a lot of work at Nike has gone into making
"a second skin for the foot" as Bill [Bowerman] described it. This
philosophy can be seen in various shoes from the Cortez (1972), the Sock
Racer (1985), the Huarache (1991), Air Rift (1995) and the Presto
(2000).
Anyway, one day in 2001, myself and some other members of
the innovation team were up at Stanford University watching Vin
Lananna’s track team training – they did so barefooted on the grass. I
asked him why that was and he told me that he believed it gradually
strengthened the athlete’s feet, making them less prone to injury and in
turn he could push them harder and improve on their times. This was our
"aha moment."
NIKE FREE 5.0 – insole, 2004
NIKE FREE 5.0 – outsole, 2004
DB: How did you go about translating that discovery into a product?
TH:
Our challenge was to design a shoe that allowed you to feel as close to
running barefoot on the grass as possible while giving optimum
protection to your feet in typical training and city environments. The
shoe also needed to allow for as plenty of natural motion to build
strength in the foot muscles. We had not long since designed the Presto,
which was also an ingredient in our thinking.
So, we did an
incredible amount of research into how the foot moves and reacts during
barefoot training and quantified that data into usable information that
guided our choices in materials, engineering and design. After what was
eventually a three-year project, our team of designers, bio-mechanists,
developers and engineers came up with the Free.
DB: What do you think have been the most significant developments with Free since it launched?
TH:
It’s a process of refinement and remaining true to the core idea of
natural motion. We never take anything off the table and think we’ve
mastered it. And the focus is always holistic – materials, form,
engineering, manufacturing – are all given equal consideration on every
iteration of the shoe.
We’ve seen the real benefits of allowing
for a full range of natural motion when training and the idea is to
create shoes that allow you to do that as best as possible.
NIKE FREE OG, 2014
NIKE FREE Flyknit 3.0, 2014
NIKE FREE hyperfeel cross elite, 2014
NIKE FREE 4.0, 2014
NIKE FREE trainer 5.0, 2014
DB: You spoke of a ‘aha moment’ while watching the athletes train barefoot – have you had any those recently?
TH:
That’s a tough one, you’ve put me on the spot there! The idea of
natural motion is still pervading most of our innovations and has crept
into specific sports now like basketball, football and golf – so the
recent insights that have surprised me have been more particular. For
example, Tiger Woods started wearing Free off the course for training
and noticed they’d strengthened his feet.
He wanted some Frees for
the course but I explained they are not really performance shoes. So
what we did was take a Free outsole and see how we could adapt it to a
golf spike – that became the TW13. If it hadn’t have been for the fact
he’d been wearing Frees to train in, we’d probably never have thought we
should adapt Free to a golf shoe. From listening to Tiger, we learned
he was ready for that innovation, and it brought about a shift within
that sport.
NIKE TW14, 2014
NIKE TW14 – outsole, 2014
DB: Besides athlete insights, how do you keep your ideas fresh?
TH:
I always look outside of our industry and encourage all of our younger
designers to do so. There are tons of interesting developments going on
in other industries that we can learn from; architecture, aeronautics,
automotive, furniture or electronics.
If you’re serious about
design, you always have to keep an eye on what’s going on in other
industries, because design relates to all these areas, and they all
crosspollinate one another eventually, be it in terms of materials,
structures, engineering or aesthetics.
If you can, it’s also nice
to travel, you’ll see different things, different ways of thinking and
that’s a good way to keep your mind open. It can be as simple as the
other week when I was in Europe and saw a car I’d never seen before. Its
form was extremely captivating, and who knows, that could find its way
into our work. Other times I’ll find a material used for something
completely non-sport related but think it might work for us.
Never think that you have anything completely figured out, that will keep you curious and sharp – prepare to surprise yourself.
DB: Do you and Tinker collaborate very often?
TH:
We have collaborated in recent years but we don’t work together daily.
In my early days as a designer at Nike we both made a conscious decision
not to work together because each of us needed to have our own
identities within the company. He was already established when I came to
work here, and I needed to make it on my own.
That said, I have
always valued his opinion and would ask for his feedback on my work, in a
designer-to-designer capacity. We finally got to work together on the
Nike PV (pole vault) light shoe which was used by Tim Mack at the 2004
Athens Olympics – when he won gold. After that we worked on the PV2 and
we’re currently working on the PV3. Pole vaulting is a sport that is
very close to us both, so it’s been a very enjoyable experience.
DB: Do the two of you ever talk ‘shop’ outside of the office?
TH:
We’re best friends as well as brothers so inevitably we’ll talk about
work and design sometimes, but not all the time. For the most part we
talk about our families and we talk about sport incessantly,
particularly American college football and his beloved Ducks!
NIKE SPECIAL FIELD BOOT, 2009
DB: Do you have any rules or beliefs that you apply to your work or even live by?
TH:
Balance. My family is very important to me. I work hard because I have a
family and there’s nothing I enjoy more than spending time with them.
So I like to be efficient with my time and balance it between family and
work as evenly as I can – that helps me enjoy both as much as possible.
I
like to help people when I can and try to be a positive influence in
other people’s lives. During my life different people have had that
positive influence on me, and I’d like to reciprocate that to others.
I
still coach pole vault in my spare time and enjoy building up trust
with my athletes. It’s similar to design in that there’s a sense of
collaboration and joint quest for improvement. Something I often repeat
to both designers and athletes is a quote from Oswald Chambers, "never
let the sense of past failure defeat your next step."
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After you buy the perfect shoes, it's important to take good care of them so you can wear them for more than one season.
Cleaning
and shining them regularly, and getting them resoled when needed will
help you keep your shoes looking nice and lasting longer.
Figuring
out which shoe repair shop to go to isn't easy so the folks over at
Yelp help us put together a list of the best cobblers in NYC.
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1. North 11 Shoe Repair, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Customers
on Yelp rave about the work that the cobblers at North 11 Shoe repair
do on their favorite shoes. While it is a little on the pricey side,
Yelp users say
it's worth it. Josh N. from Brooklyn said. "First I
was a little taken back by the estimated price to repair a stitching
and re-sole my favorite Ashton Grey boots--
about 40% of the cost
to get new ones. When I received them back, they look and feel new!
Polishing is included. Couldn't be happier --with the repairs these
boots
should last a lot longer."
2. Roma Shoe Repair & Shine, Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn
Yelp
users said over and over in their reviews that Roma Shoe Repair &
Shine "saved their favorite shoes." The service speedy and the cobbler's
craftsmanship is
perfect. Not only is the work top-notch, the owner is helpful and friendly. Yelp user Cindy J. said, "The man was incredibly friendly and fixed a pair of boot heels I
thought
were ruined! He did an amazing job! They look wonderful. He was done in
half an hour and only charged $15! I will become a very loyal customer
and recommend
him to all of my friends."
3. Giovanni Shoe Repair Inc, Upper West Side, Manhattan
While
Giovanni's looks like a "hole in the wall" from the outside, don't be
fooled, he'll do great work on your shoes. Yelp users say he is
friendly, fast, and
reasonably priced, and that they would never
go anywhere else. Wendy Y said, "Quality of work is outstanding -- shoes
brought in for repair are returned nicely
polished. When my
daughter needed a couple of extra holes punched in her purse straps, the
shoe repair guy did it for free. You will be able to add years of wear
to
your shoes and boots by bringing them here."
4. Minas Shoe Repair, Financial District, Manhattan
Wall Streeters:
here's your place. The easy place for you to stop in on your lunch
break is also one of the best on the island. Yelp user Scott S. said
Hadn't been
here in a long time. Went in for a shine and
they did an amazing job. Shoes look brand new. If you're near Wall
Street this is the place to go. Excellent shoe
repair as well. Service is personal. And top-notch."
5. Chelsea Cobbler, Chelsea, Manhattan
The
helpful cobblers at Chelsea Cobbler will walk you through the basics to
make sure you get the most wear out of your shoes. On Yelp, Adam S.
said, "Absolutely love
this place. These two taught me the basics
of my new leather shoes and helped proof them for long-term use. Great
price and quick turnout. Would highly recommend to
anyone for reliable repairs. Super sweet couple, too."
6. Cobbler Express, Murray Hill, Manhattan
The
people at Cobbler Express go above and beyond to make your shoes, and
other leather goods look great. Yelp user Alli G. said, "Incredible and
friendly service.
Went to 3 different warehouses to find the right color leather to fix my bag. It looks better than when I first bought it!"
7. Romano Cobbler, Chelsea, Manhattan
You
can trust Romano Cobbler with your most expensive, most beloved shoes.
Lewis M. said on Yelp, "I brought 8 pairs of Gucci shoes to Romano for
repair and
refurbishing. Let me tell you, he's the best, what
beautiful work he does! Wonderful service, prices, quality; he only Uses
JR Leather soles. I will be back every
time I need your expertise! Thanks Romano ...you are THE BEST!!!!!"
Romano CobblierGabriel B. via YelpRomano is the best of the best.
8. Albert's Shoe Repair, Astoria, Queens
Bring
your shoes to Albert's and they'll look better than when you first
bought them, is what Yelp users say. Robin B. was impressed by how
quickly the cobbler could
have her shoes for her too, "Yes, this
place is the real deal. Friendly service and great workmanship. I
brought in two pairs of shoes and he said, "ready tomorrow,
ok?" I
thought, am I in heaven? Nobody ever turns my shoes around that
quickly! Both pairs came out looking great. He has a real attention to
detail! You won't be
disappointed."
9. Rostelle Shoe Repair, Hell's Kitchen, Manhattan
Not only does Rostelle's do a great job, the price is right too. Yelp user Suz B. said, "Amazing service. First of all, the guy was really helpful, friendly, and
accommodating.
Was quite happy to let me decide when I wanted to pick them up. An
extra bonus is that they're open really early. He did an AMAZING job
re-heeling my
boots. And the tips were buffed to the most shiny
shine I have ever seen! really, a month later, on the cooler streets of
Edinburgh, they still look fabulous. I was
VERY happy to have
found this place (a bargain at $20, too!). Seek him out if you're in
deed of shoe repairs. You can't go wrong. It's brilliant!"
10. Michael's Shoe Repair, Gowanus, Brooklyn
You
might not recognize your shoes when you pick them up from Michael's
because they'll look so good. Ilya M. said on Yelp, "What can I say.
Michael really knows what
he's doing. Brought a couple of pairs of
shoes that needed to be resoled and new heels. When I came to pick them
up, at first I thought he gave me the wrong shoes.
Then I
realized that he did such a great job that they looked brand new. What
surprised me the most is that I had my shoes done in a couple of
different places. But
this guy topped them! He actually sewed the
leather soles, To make sure it has a better hold than just glue. And
keep its original look. Gave it a nice matte finish on
the upper leather... From what I heard he's been in this business for over 20 years. Shows why he's still in business."
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The
first thing you need to understand: If you're a polishing purist, you
need to look the other way. But if you're a guy who just wants his shoes
to look sweet,
you're going to love this.
Aaron Marino of
alpha m. says that your shoes are representative of you. Make sure your
shoes are polished, professional, and looking great.
Alpha is
showing the way. Here's a simple technique that takes approximately five
minutes with most of the time taken with set up. Polish shoes after two
to three
wears so they're always looking their best.
Learn how to polish your shoes
Get
your scuffed shoes. You need a polish that closely matches your shoe
color (Kiwi brand is recommended for about $3) and an application cloth,
which Alpha uses an
old wife-beater. You also need a towel to protect your pants.
1. Prepare your shoe by wiping it off, and unbuckle or unlace.
2. Open polish and lather cloth - apply thin layer all over so that the
shoe looks matte. You don't need a ton of polish. A nice thin coating
is all that's
required, making sure to get into the nicks and onto
the tongue. If you have contrasting stitching, be incredibly careful.
Let it dry and do the other shoe.
3. Lay protective cloth over your
legs and hold shoe into knees - start buffing so you're left with a
beautifully polished shoe. Rotate shoe around. If you get to a
part that you can't create that motion, get in and buff with one hand.
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Whether it's rain, snow, or ice, winter weather can really wreak havoc on your dress shoes.
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We asked thenmall cofounders Lane Gerson and Ariel Nelson to share
their tips for protecting your shoes during the bleak winter months.
How do I save wet leather shoes?
Though
it may be tempting to stick the soaked shoes in front of a direct heat
source, like a radiator or fireplace, Nelson and Gerson advise against
doing so.
"Stuff your shoes with newspaper to absorb the moisture,
then replace with cedar shoe trees," they said. "If you have leather
soles, let them dry too."
What if my shoes start to smell bad?
Funky-smelling shoes are usually caused by bacterial or fungal build-up.
"There are a variety of fixes, including applying antibacterial sprays or a light layer of baking soda," they said.
You could also try inserting an odor-controlling insole or even dryer sheets.
Salt stained my shoes — now what?
First,
Nelson and Gerson recommend using saddle soap or a specialty salt stain
remover to get rid of the stain itself. Then, stuff the shoes with
newspaper and leave
them out to dry, away from a direct heat source.
"Last, apply leather conditioner or natural oils to replenish the leather and return it to its original luster," they said.
What are the best kinds of shoes to wear?
"Synthetic
materials created specifically for inclement weather such as Gore Tex
and rubber are fitting materials for the worst of the winter," they
said. "When cared
for and treated properly, full-grain leather is a naturally resilient material that can also withstand the elements."
They recommend using natural oils, like mink oil, to make leather even stronger in the winter.
What styles of boots are fashionable this winter?
"The
Chelsea boot continues to be a winter staple," they said. "This season
the combat boot and dress chukka, both classic styles, are seeing a
variety of new
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thenmall's Carter boot, a twist on the combat boot, continues to be one of the brand's bestselling styles.
What products are best for regular shoe maintenance?
"Shoe horns are always recommended as they help to preserve the back counter and overall structure of your shoe," they said.
You should also be conditioning and polishing your shoes on a regular basis, which will keep the leather supple and moisturized.
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give your shoes a rest.
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You shouldn't just slip on the same trusty pair of dress shoes day after day.
Why? Because if you let them rest they'll stay alive that much longer.
"The
best way to extend the life of your shoes is to rotate your shoes
and use quality shoe trees after each wear," said Jim Kass, vice
president of operations for Allen Edmonds shoe company. "If you wear the
same pair everyday, your shoes don't have ample time to dry and they
won't maintain their shape."
As you wear your shoes, the leather soaks up the perspiration your feet give off.
If
you don't give your shoes a day to air out, the leather will warp and
your shoes will start to lose their shape — not to mention get musty and
start to stink.
So, it behooves you to purchase at least one
other pair and switch off between the two. Your original pair will last
much longer, and you'll have another pair to wear with new outfits. It's
a win-win.
Plus, variety is the spice of life. Why would you want to wear the same pair of shoes every day?
If
you'd like to be extra cautious with your prized shoe collection,
invest in some shoe trees. Put them in after you take your shoes off for
the day, and they'll not only soak up your foot sweat, but keep your
shoes in perfect shape.
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A
few years back I bought some Bontrager RXL road shoes at the St. Louis
Swap Meet for 10 bucks. I’ve never really used them because from day one
they felt too
narrow and caused pain on the outsides of my feet.
If you’ve experienced pain on the outside of your feet while riding you
may be like me and need cleat shims to
correct a Varus tilt in
your shoe to pedal interface. I’d highly recommend checking out Lewedges
or some other kind of pedal shim on the market.
With pedal wedges
the shoes were better but still felt too narrow and uncomfortable and
didn’t get much use. I decided to start using these this winter while
riding
the trainer just to see if I could break them in a bit.
After a few rides that we were uncomfortable I got an idea, I put the
shoes in the oven and baked them at 250
degrees for about 5 minutes.
Some
shoes are designed to be heated up and worn to get a custom fit around
your foot, its very common in the world of inline skating and becoming
common on highend
cycling shoes. I’m certain that these Bontrager
shoes don’t have that feature, but I thought, “What the heck.” After the
first heating they felt incredibly
comfortable for the next ride.
A few days later I wore them again and the left shoe felt tight and
constricting again, while the right shoe felt much better.
I’ve now given the Left shoe 3 more heatings and am finding it 90% as comfortable as the Right shoe.
So what’s going on here?
Either
the mostly plastic materials of the shoes are stretching a bit and
forming a better fit while they are warm on my foot or I’ve just worn
them enough to stretch
them out naturally. I think that the heat treatment helped alot and they shoes felt really good while they were warm.
If
you have a pair of shoes that you just have never been able to get to
fit, you might try heating them up. The procedure couldn’t be simpler.
Turn on the oven,
place the shoes in the oven for about 5 minutes,
then put the shoes on your feet and go ride. Only thing to really watch
out for is if any kind of metal would be
touching your skin, it may burn you.
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In my impression, my mother when I was young didn't through the
high-heeled shoes, may be the reason for the home financially, or the
ground to do farm work every day
to wear high heels is not
convenient.When I was a child, two sister often steal the aunt wear high
heels to show to show, but I don't interested, say a reason.
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We
own the first pair of high heels should be in the second year of
technical secondary school.Uncle opened a shoe ark yourself at the mall,
specializes in all kinds
of women's shoes, my aunt was sent a
pair with about 5 cm high shoes for me.Really very happy, not for shoes,
but because my aunt's love.School although there is no
clear
stipulation students can't wear high heels, but I still feel that as
students in the campus wearing high-heeled shoes is not very good, so my
aunt sent heels
kept in the cupboard.School holiday home,
occasionally out and try it on, but I still don't want to wear.Put long,
also don't know when I want to check it again, the
shoe box is
empty, my mother take out a little younger sister wore.Was not angry,
beautiful shoes show people what they should, rather than in the closet,
but the
first pair of high heels so fly, the in the mind is some.
When
the first pair of high heels is after the graduation work in
changshu.Remember to go shopping in yunnan, and a little girl, she
suggested that we buy with high
heels, called sister shoes.She is
the best, after graduation, I get along with a colleague of deepest
love, until now.We every day in and out of the company at the
same
time, the dress with high heels, it is sharing, there are many
colleagues said we are sisters, but there are also individual colleague
said we don't like long, we
will smile at one another, tell them: a long like a dad, a long like mom.May be from then began to wear high heels.
Because
I am a flat feet, high-heeled shoes to wear long feet will be very
tired.Go to a bank handle affairs every day, sometimes are lining up to
for a long time,
they rarely wear high heels, but also to the fake
me younger sister's mood, her small fairy, height 158 cm, always say I
look up some feeling.From there, to abandon
the high heels.
The
voice of the once very don't like high heels.First came to Shanghai,
bring himself lived in a post office, a total of six layers, we live in
the fifth floor, every
night will have a clear upstairs paced up
and down the high heels, especially in the night.Many times all want to
go upstairs to remind, but I still think
relinquishment, into a
natural habit.Have a chat with my next-door neighbor, speaking of the
high-heeled shoes of noise upstairs, a neighbor told me, must be I
listen
to wrong, because no one has ever lived upstairs.Neighbors
say that finish, frighten I broke out in a cold sweat, it is the voice
of high heels.From then on, night
when a man is some fear, afraid
to hear the voice of the high heels.Also don't know how long did this
fear, also don't know their final is not afraid or indeed no
sound, then forget to let me fear of high heels.
Arrived
at the unit now, many female colleagues are wearing high heels, have a
plenty of love, have a plenty of because of necessity, small may women
wear high heels
it does look good.But their don't like to wear
high heels, but willing to listen to the voice of high heels fall to the
ground.Everyone is different, the voice of the
walk wang heels
voice appearing calm, calm, landing;Small gu heels landing sounds a bit
in a hurry, maybe she was a short temper;Xu Jie heel ground is safe,
easy;Xiao
wu heel ground rather than a loud is very weak, give a
person is a kind of tender feeling, like her people;Recruit of heel
ground loud very brittle, accord with her
optimistic, lively personality.........The.
When
summer has bought two skirt, the classmate all reveal skirt with high
heels, such ability is tie-in.Hesitated for a long time, with less than 3
cm high and bought
a pair of sandals.I think everyone walking
voice on different occasions, different mood issued out voice will be
different.Under the strobe lights, oneself a person
walking in the
street, listening to their own walk, is a kind of enjoy, especially
very few pedestrians, heel ground will become more clear, more clear.I
have asked
myself, I heel ground revealed for what?Happy or sad?Calm or impetuous?Weak or strong?......
"People
have sensitized, month, is short of a round" whatever, disclosing heel
ground, the sound of a heel would like shadows will accompany my life,
leave.............
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present Become like this.All kinds of shoes can be seen everywhere.Like clothing,Shoes at some point,Also represents the
status;However,In addition to the rare shoes we care about most,Is actually the shoes suitable for not suitable for
problems.So,When you have shoes in the dream,Said,You might want to The compatible or not.The dream shoes,May also
be reflected in real life you adopt the mode of action,Especially when you wear it around.Pay attention to in the dream,The
style and type of the shoes.Observe how the relationship between you and shoes,How do you use it,And do you feel about
it.The kinds of shoes.There are many kinds of shoes categories:Shoes according to the user,There are
male,female,children's shoes,etc.Shoes classification according to the season,A single, clamp, such as cotton, cool
shoes.Shoes are classified according to the material,There are leather shoes,Cloth shoes,Rubber shoes,Plastic
shoes.Shoes classification according to the process,Slit attach, plastic injection molding, injection, moulding, sulfide, cold
glue,glue, plastic lining, assembly and other shoes.Shoes are classified according to the design points and head shape is
square, square head, round head, round head,pointed;With type flat, half high heels, high heels,Wedge;Have high Yao, low
Yao upper, middle, high.Classified according to utility cent, have everyday shoes,labor protection shoes, sports shoes,
travel shoes, negative, and shoes, etc.
Recommend a shoe last, ASICS GEL KAYANO Men 01.
